| Transparent cosmetic microemulsion-based formulation containing an alpha-hydroxy-carboxylic acid -> Monitor Keywords |
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Transparent cosmetic microemulsion-based formulation containing an alpha-hydroxy-carboxylic acidRelated Patent Categories: Drug, Bio-affecting And Body Treating Compositions, Anti-perspirants Or Perspiration Deodorants, Aluminum Compound ContainingTransparent cosmetic microemulsion-based formulation containing an alpha-hydroxy-carboxylic acid description/claimsThe Patent Description & Claims data below is from USPTO Patent Application 20070172440, Transparent cosmetic microemulsion-based formulation containing an alpha-hydroxy-carboxylic acid. Brief Patent Description - Full Patent Description - Patent Application Claims
[0001] The invention relates to a clear, cosmetic and dermatological emulsion-based formulation with reduced stickiness and yield point. [0002] For aesthetic reasons in particular, transparent and translucent products are preferred by many consumers. Thus, transparent formulations are often used, for example, as deodorant or antiperspirant (AP). These can nowadays be realized by the following technologies: [0003] 1. aqueous-alcoholic formulations [0004] 2. water-in-silicone emulsions [0005] 3. microemulsions [0006] The aqueous-alcoholic deodorant and AP formulations are mostly based on water and alcohol as medium, deodorant and antiperspirant agents as active ingredients, and also perfume, solubilizers and thickeners (mostly based on carbohydrate) as additional agents. They are perceived by the consumer as being fresh and cooling, but are at the same time encumbered with a whole series of disadvantages. Thus, for example, application primarily to freshly shaved skin is associated with incompatibilities as a result of the alcohol content. Another major disadvantage is the fact that relatively large amounts of oil cannot be incorporated into such systems. As a result of the high content of antiperspirant salt required for highly effective performance, a white residue remains following application to the skin; this is perceived by the consumer as being extremely troublesome. However, due to the absence of a sufficiently large oil phase for technical reasons, this cannot be concealed. Moreover, the use of carbohydrate thickeners leads to high stickiness of the product after the alcohol has evaporated. [0007] Water-in-silicone emulsions belong to the group of water-in-oil emulsions. The water phase comprising ethanol or polyhydric alcohols, such as, for example, propylene glycol and water-soluble active ingredients, such as AP agent and/or deodorant active ingredient, constitutes about 75-90% of the formulation. The oil phase consists of a volatile and a nonvolatile silicone oil and also a silicone emulsifier. [0008] The transparency of water-in-silicone emulsions is based on matching the refractive indices of the two phases. It is a drawback that even a difference in the indices of 0.0004 caused, for example, by evaporation, leads to cloudiness. WO 98/32418 and WO 92/05767 describe such deodorant or AP formulations based on W/Si emulsion. [0009] One approach for solving the described disadvantages has been made possible through cosmetically pleasing alcohol-free and transparent products which are based on so-called microemulsions. These have the major advantage that even relatively large amounts of various oils--with all of the described positive effects for the consumer--can be stably incorporated. Formulations of this type are in principle available by means of phase inversion temperature technology (PIT) or high-pressure homogenization. The required stability of the emulsifier system to high concentrations of antiperspirant salts, however, places high demands on the formulation skill of the product developer. [0010] WO 9628132 and WO 9815255 describe microemulsions of this type. The disclosure of these documents is thus explicitly part of the present invention. However, a sticky feel on the skin sometimes caused by the thickener, and the lack of a yield point of the microemulsion is also disadvantageous in the case of these formulations. [0011] It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic preparation which enriches the prior art and helps to avoid its disadvantages. [0012] In particular, it is the object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic and/or dermatological formulation which is transparent and is characterized by minimized stickiness. In particular, the object was to provide a deodorant or antiperspirant formulation which is transparent and has no cloudiness at all, which is characterized by a minimized stickiness and which has a defined yield point for optimized discharge and application. [0013] The bundle of objects is achieved by a cosmetic formulation corresponding to claim 1. The subject-matter of the dependent claims are advantageous embodiments of the preparation according to the invention. Furthermore, the invention includes the use of such preparations. [0014] It was surprising and unforeseeable by the person skilled in the art that by adding at least one antiperspirant active ingredient, at least one .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid, preferably mandelic acid, and a microemulsion, in particular of the oil in water type, the provision of a transparent formulation with a defined yield point is possible and thus permits the provision of a transparent and low-stick cosmetic antiperspirant and/or deodorant preparation. [0015] Through the surprisingly simple combination of antiperspirant active ingredients and mandelic acid in O/W microemulsions it is possible to prepare transparent cosmetic formulations which have reduced or no objectively or subjectively perceived stickiness. [0016] Hydroxyphenylacetic acid or else phenylglycolic acid with the formula H.sub.5C.sub.6--CH(OH)--COOH, C.sub.8H.sub.8O.sub.3, is known under the name mandelic acid. Mandelic acid is readily soluble in water, alcohol, ether and 2-propanol. Synthetically, (.+-.)-mandelic acid is obtained from benzaldehyde and hydrocyanic acid via the .alpha.-hydroxynitrile (cyanohydrin) and its acidic hydrolysis corresponding to FIG. 1: [0017] FIG. 1: Preparation of mandelic acid [0018] By means of an .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid, preferably mandelic acid, it is surprisingly possible to prepare an AP or deodorant preparation which permits the required properties, such as transparency and low stickiness and, moreover, also the establishment of a specific yield point of the preparation. Furthermore, the formulation according to the invention is absorbed very rapidly into the skin without leaving residues behind. [0019] Advantageously, the preparation according to the invention is based on microemulsions, preference being given to O/W microemulsions, in particular microemulsion gels, as are claimed in WO 9815255 and WO 9628132, the relevant disclosures therein thus belong explicitly to the disclosure of the present invention. [0020] The cosmetic formulation is accordingly preferably based on microemulsion gels which are based a) on microemulsions of the oil-in-water type which comprise [0021] an oil phase which is essentially composed of constituents of low volatility, and a water phase [0022] comprising: [0023] one or more polyethoxylated O/W emulsifiers and/or [0024] one or more polypropoxylated O/W emulsifiers and/or [0025] one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O/W emulsifiers, [0026] optionally also comprising one or more W/O emulsifiers [0027] having an emulsifier content of less than 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, [0028] obtainable by bringing a mixture of the base components, comprising water phase, oil phase, one or more of the O/W emulsifiers according to the invention, optionally, one or more W/O emulsifiers, and if desired further auxiliaries, additives and/or active ingredients, to a temperature within or above the phase inversion temperature range, and subsequently cooling to room temperature, [0029] (b) in which the droplets of the discontinuous oil phase are joined together by one or more crosslinker substances whose molecules are characterized by at least one hydrophilic region which has a size suitable for bridging the distance between the microemulsion droplets, and by at least one hydrophobic region which is able to enter into hydrophobic interaction with the microemulsion droplets. [0030] However, it is a problem of the microemulsions described in WO 9815255 and WO 9628132 that a defined yield point could not be established. This object has likewise been achieved by the present invention. [0031] In simple emulsions, finely disperse droplets of one phase (water droplets in the case of W/O emulsions or lipid vesicles in O/W emulsions) surrounded by an emulsifier sheath are present in the second phase. The droplet diameters of customary emulsions are in the range from about 1 .mu.m to about 50 .mu.m. Such "macroemulsions" are, without further coloring additives, milky white in color and opaque. Finer "macroemulsions", the droplet diameters of which are in the range from about 10.sup.-1 .mu.m to about 1 .mu.m, are, again without coloring additives, bluish white in color and opaque. [0032] Only micellar and molecular solutions with particle diameters of less than about 10.sup.-2 .mu.m appear clear and transparent. [0033] The droplet diameter of transparent or translucent microemulsions on the other hand is in the range from about 10.sup.-2 .mu.m to about 10.sup.-1 .mu.m. Such microemulsions are mostly of low viscosity. The viscosity of many microemulsions of the O/W type is comparable with that of water. The viscosity of these microemulsions can be increased with the help of associative thickeners, meaning that viscous gels are then present. [0034] The preparation according to the invention is also advantageously in the form of a gel and has a yield point as a result of which discharge and application is improved compared to preparations from the prior art. [0035] Besides those known from the prior art, the emulsifiers used are, in particular, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol(16) stearyl ether, fatty acid ethoxylates, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol(14) stearate, polyethylene glycol glyceryl fatty acid esters, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol(15) glyceryl laurate, and the W/O emulsifier used is, for example, glyceryl monostearate. [0036] The oil phase preferably consists of esters of saturated and unsaturated, branched and unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids or alcohols with chain lengths of 12-25 C atoms, such as, for example, octyidodecanol. Continue reading about Transparent cosmetic microemulsion-based formulation containing an alpha-hydroxy-carboxylic acid... 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