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Cosmetic compositions comprising polyol/polyester block polymersRelated Patent Categories: Drug, Bio-affecting And Body Treating Compositions, Live Hair Or Scalp Treating Compositions (nontherapeutic), Polymer Containing (nonsurfactant, Natural Or Synthetic)Cosmetic compositions comprising polyol/polyester block polymers description/claimsThe Patent Description & Claims data below is from USPTO Patent Application 20070009465, Cosmetic compositions comprising polyol/polyester block polymers. Brief Patent Description - Full Patent Description - Patent Application Claims
[0001] The object of the invention under consideration is a cosmetic composition with a content of specific block polymers comprised of polyol blocks and polyester blocks, with a further object being methods for hair treatment using the block polymers. [0002] In the shaping of hair, a distinction is generally made between temporary and lasting, permanent hair styling. As a rule, a temporary hair styling takes place with the use of compositions based on solutions or dispersions of hair-fixing polymers. Products of this kind give the hair more or less hold, volume, elasticity, springiness and lustre by means of the addition of polymers. For example, in the form of a gel, these styling products facilitate the shaping and creation of a hairstyle; in the form of a hairspray, they improve the condition of a created hairstyle, and, in the form of a fixing foam, they increase the volume of the hair. Detrimental is that the desired effects last for only a relatively short time and are quickly lost again as the result of outside influences, such as combing, wind, high air humidity, contact with water or sleeping on the hairstyle. As a rule, such influences necessitate a renewed, time-consuming hairstyle creation and a renewed application of a styling preparation. As a rule, a permanent hair styling is accomplished by means of a permanent wave treatment. In this case, disulfide bonds in the hair are reductively cleaved, the hair is brought into a new shape and this new shape is fixed by forming new disulfide bonds by means of an oxidative process. Detrimental is that, as a result of the necessary chemical treatment of the hair with reductive and oxidation agents, it is not possible to avoid damage to the hair structure. A further disadvantage of the methods for hair restyling known up to now is that it is not possible to make the restyling reversible in a relatively simple manner, i.e., to move from one hairstyle to another without complex re-creation. [0003] The subject matter underlying the invention under consideration was to provide a composition which, after the creation of a first hairstyle, facilitates a simple, uncomplicated and quick restyling or recovery of the hairstyle, without it being absolutely necessary to re-apply the composition during the restyling. A further subject matter was to provide a method enabling retrievable hair restyling without damaging intervention in the hair structure, in particular, a method that makes it easier to prepare a hairstyle again after deformations of an originally prepared hairstyle that have been introduced by external influences. [0004] The object of the invention is a cosmetic composition containing, in a suitable cosmetic foundation, at least one block polymer having at least a first block, which is a polyol selected from polyethers, oligoethers, hydrocarbons having a molecular weight of at least 400 g/mol and at least two alcoholic hydroxyl groups, oligoester diols and polyesters of dicarboxylic acids with diols and at least two additional blocks, which are polyesters of hydroxycarboxylic acids or their lactones. In the context of the invention, a polyol is a compound having at least two alcoholic hydroxyl groups. The hydrocarbons can be linear, branched, saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. Polyethers and oligoethers are polymer or oligomer compounds whose organic repeating units are held together by ether functionalities (C--O--C). In the context of the invention, polyethers have at least 4 ether groups and at least 5 repeating units, and oligoethers have one, two or three ether groups and from 2 to 4 repeating units. [0005] Block polymers that are suitable according to the invention preferably consist of at least one hard segment and at least one soft segment, and preferably have at least two transition temperatures T.sub.trans and T'.sub.trans, wherein T'.sub.trans lies above room temperature (25.degree. C.) and T.sub.trans lies below T'.sub.trans. [0006] The polymer segments are preferably oligomers or dihydroxy hydrocarbons, in particular, linear chain molecules having a molecular weight of, for example, 400 to 30,000, preferably 1,000 to 20,000 or 1,500 to 15,000. The molecular weight of the block polymers can, for example, be from 30,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 50,000 to 700,000 or from 70,000 to 400,000. These have a degree of crystallinity of preferably from 3 to 80%, particularly preferably from 3 to 60%. The two transition temperatures can, for example, be melting temperatures T.sub.m or glass transition temperatures T.sub.g. Above T.sub.trans, the polymer has a lower modulus of elasticity than it does below T.sub.trans. The ratio of the moduli of elasticity below and above T.sub.trans as is preferably at least 10, particularly preferably at least 20. The lower transition temperature T.sub.trans is preferably greater than room temperature (25.degree. C.), in particular at least 30.degree. C., particularly preferably at least 35.degree. C. or at least 40.degree. C., and is that temperature which, when exceeded, sees the spontaneous recovery of the permanent shape from the deformed shape or from the temporary shape. T.sub.trans is preferably so far above the usually to be expected ambient temperatures that at the ambient temperature, no significant, unintentional, thermally induced re-shaping of the temporary hairstyle occurs. Suitable ranges for T.sub.trans are, for example, from 25 to 100.degree. C., from 30 to 75.degree. C., from 35 to 70.degree. C. or from 40 to 60.degree. C. The upper transition temperature T'.sub.trans is greater than T.sub.trans and is that temperature above which the impression of the permanent shape or the re-impression of a permanent shape into a new permanent shape occurs, and below which the permanent shape is fixed. T'.sub.trans is preferably so much greater than T.sub.trans that during the heating of the hairstyle to a temperature above T.sub.trans for the recovery of the permanent hairstyle or for the reforming of a temporary hairstyle while maintaining the permanent hairstyle, no significant, unintentional, thermally induced deformation of the permanent shape of the hairstyle occurs. Preferably, T'.sub.trans is at least 10.degree. C., particularly preferably at least 20.degree. C. or at least 30.degree. C. above T.sub.trans. The difference between T'.sub.trans and T.sub.trans can, for example, be from 10 to 80.degree. C., from 20 to 70.degree. C. or from 30 to 60.degree. C. Suitable ranges for T'.sub.trans are, for example, from 40 to 150.degree. C., from 50 to 100.degree. C. or from 70 to 95.degree. C. [0007] Suitable polymers P are, for example, polymers having the following general formula A(B).sub.n (I) wherein A is derived from an n-valent polyether or oligoether, from hydrocarbons having a molecular weight of at least 400 g/mol and n alcoholic hydroxyl groups, from oligoester diols or from a polyester of a dicarboxylic acid with one diol, B represents a poly(hydroxycarboxylic acid) block and n represents a number greater than or equal to two, preferably 2, 3 or 4. Preferred are B-A-B triblock polymers, particularly block polymers with a single polyol block as the middle block, two terminal polyester blocks of hydroxycarboxylic acids or their lactones and terminal alcoholic hydroxyl groups. [0008] A preferably represents polyalkylene glycol ethers from polyvalent alcohols, poly(tetrahydrofurane), dimerdiol, dimerdiol oligoethers and oligoester diols (dihydroxy oligoesters). The polyalkylene glycol ethers preferably have 2 to 6 C atoms per alkylene group; particularly preferred are poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) and poly(propylene glycol) (PPG). Dimerdiol is the designation for alpha, omega C36 diols, which can be produced by the dimerization of oleyl alcohol or by the hydrogenation of dimer fatty acids. Dimer fatty acid is a mixture of aliphatic, branched or cyclic C36 dicarboxylic acids (dimer acid), which can be produced by the dimerization of oleic acid or tall oil fatty acid (TOFA). Dimerdiol can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Sovermol.RTM. 908. Dimerdiol oligoethers are oligomers of dimerdiol, and can be produced by acid-catalyzed dehydration of dimerdiol. Preferred are dimers, trimers and tetramers of dimerdiol. Suitable commercial products are, e.g., Sovermol.RTM. 909 with a molecular weight of approximately 1,000 or Sovermol.RTM. 910 with a molecular weight of approximately 2,000. Oligoester diols (dihydroxy oligoesters) are reaction products of an oligomerization of a dicarboxylic acid with a diol, wherein the reaction product has two hydroxyl groups. Suitable dicarboxylic acids are, for example, C3 to C20 dicarboxylic acids, preferably aliphatic C4 to C10 dicarboxylic acids. Aliphatic dicarboxylic acids are, for example, oxalic acid, malonic acid, diacetic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid. Aromatic dicarboxylic acids are, for example, phthalic acid and terephthalic acid. Diol components of the oligoester diols are, for example, C2 to C30 diols, preferably aliphatic C5 to C20 diols. Also suitable are glycerol monoesters, particularly monoesters of glycerol with aliphatic C2 to C30 monocarboxylic acids, preferably C5 to C20 monocarboxylic acids. [0009] The poly(hydroxycarboxylic acid) block B can be formed of hydroxycarboxylic acids, particularly monohydroxymonocarboxylic acids having up to 30 C atoms, as well as of their lactones or lactides. The poly(hydroxycarboxylic acid) block B can also be a copolymer of two or more different hydroxycarboxylic acids. Hydroxycarboxylic acids can be: saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acids, aromatic hydroxycarboxylic acids, alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids, omega-hydroxycarboxylic acids and hydroxy fatty acids. Alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids are, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid. Beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids are, for example, beta hydroxyalkyl acids such as beta hydroxybutyric acid or beta-hydroxyvaleric acid. Hydroxy fatty acids are, for example, 12-hydroxystearic acid or ricinoleic acid. Aromatic hydroxy acids are, for example, hydroxybenzoic acids, e.g., salicylic acid. [0010] B preferably stands for poly(.epsilon.-caprolactone), polylactides, polyglycolides, poly(lactide-co-glycolide), poly(pentadecalactone), poly(caprolactone-co-lactide), poly(pentadecalactone-co-lactide) or poly(pentadecalactone-co-caprolactone). A polyester that is particularly preferred for use according to the invention is a polyester on the basis of lactide units or pentadecalactone units. [0011] Preferred block copolymers are those with the general formula: HO--[B1-C(.dbd.O)O--].sub.n1[Y--O--].sub.n2[C(.dbd.O)--B2-O--].sub.n3H (Ia) B1 and B2 are the same or different and stand for branched, cyclic or linear alkylene groups with 1 to 40, preferably 2 to 20, C atoms. Y stands for a branched, cyclic or linear alkylene group with 2 to 30 C atoms, preferably for ethylene groups and/or propylene groups, or for a block comprising dimerdiol, dimerdiol oligoether or oligoester diol, wherein n1, n2 and n3 are the same or different numbers greater than or equal to zero, wherein both n2 and the sum n1+n2 are greater than zero. [0012] Particularly preferred are polymers with the formula (Ia), wherein B1 and B2 stand for branched or linear alkylene groups with 2 to 20 C atoms, Y is an ethylene group and n1, n2 and n3 are greater than zero and are selected in such a way that the molecular weight of the polymer is greater than or equal to 2,000. Some examples of suitable polymers are block copolymers with a polyethylene glycol middle block and terminal blocks of polylactic acid or poly-.epsilon.-caprolactone, wherein the terminal blocks are end-substituted with hydroxyl groups, the middle block has a molecular weight in the range from 500 to 20,000, preferably 2,000 to 10,000, and the average molecular weight of the block copolymer is from 2,000 to 50,000, preferably from 3,000 to 25,000. [0013] The advantage of the copolymers with a block structure is that the various properties and functions of the blocks can be combined in one polymer. The properties of the blocks, such as the hydrophilicity, the affinity to hair or the transition temperatures, can be selected independently of one another. [0014] For example, to produce the block copolymers, an oligomeric or polymeric diol can be used as a di-functional initiator for a ring-opening polymerization (ROP). In this case, the initiator represents the A block. Preferably, polyether diols, which are commercially available in various molecular weights, are used as initiators. Preferred for use are PEO or PEG with a molecular weight of from 4,000 to 8,000 g/mol, particularly preferably with a molecular weight of 6,000 and 8,000 g/mol, which corresponds to the A block length. [0015] Additional preferred diols are: [0016] Dimerdiol (dimer fatty diol), commercially available under the trade name Sovermol.RTM. 908, with a molecular weight of 550 g/mol. The production of dimerdiol is known. For example, dimerdiol can be produced by the hydrogenation of dimeric oleic acid and/or its esters according to the German printed patent specification DE-B 17 68 313. The general formula is HO--CH.sub.2--C.sub.34H.sub.66--CH.sub.2--OH. [0017] Dimerdiol oligoether, commercially available under the trade name Sovermol.RTM. 909, with a molecular weight of approximately 1,000 g/mol, and Sovermol.RTM. 910, with a molecular weight of approximately 2,000 g/mol. The general formula is HO--CH.sub.2--C.sub.34H.sub.66--CH.sub.2--O--[CH.sub.2--C.sub.34H.sub.66-- -CH.sub.2--O--].sub.nH wherein n is a number from 1 to 5, preferably 1, 2 or 3. [0018] Oligoester diols with molecular weights between 1,000 and 6,000 g/mol, which were synthesized starting from dicarboxylic acids and diols on a fatty basis. The diols on a fatty basis are, in particular, linear or branched aliphatic C.sub.2 to C.sub.14 diols, 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol, dimer fatty diol, dimer fatty diol oligoether with a molecular weight of from 1,000 to 2,000, and glycerol monoester with oleic acid, stearic acid or lauric acid. The dicarboxylic acids are preferably dimer fatty acid, adipic acid and azelaic acid. [0019] Oligoester diols having the following general formulas are suitable: [0020] Oligoester diols of dimerdiol: HO--CH.sub.2--C.sub.34H.sub.66--CH.sub.2--O--[(O.dbd.)C--R--C(.dbd.O)--O-- -CH.sub.2--C.sub.34H.sub.66--CH.sub.2--O--].sub.nH [0021] Oligoester diols of 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol: HO--(CH.sub.2).sub.11--CH(C.sub.6H.sub.13)--O--[(O.dbd.)C--R--C(.dbd.O)--- O--(CH2).sub.11-CH(C.sub.6H.sub.13)--O--].sub.nH Particularly preferred are hydroxystearyl alcohol-adipate-diol and hydroxystearyl alcohol-azelate-diol. [0022] Oligoester diols of glycerol mono stearate: HO--CH(CH.sub.2--O--C(.dbd.O)(C.sub.17H.sub.35))--CH.sub.2O--[(O.dbd.)C--- R--C(.dbd.O)--O--CH.sub.2--CH--(CH.sub.2O--C(.dbd.O)--(C.sub.17H.sub.35))-- -CH.sub.2O--].sub.nH In all of these formulas, R stands for linear, aliphatic hydrocarbons with 4 to 36 C atoms and n stands for numbers greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2. [0023] The production of oligoester diols from diols and dicarboxylic acids is known in the state of the art. The production can take place with or without the use of catalysts. All esterification catalysts, such as sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid or p-toluenesulphonic acid can be used as catalysts. Tin compounds, such as tin dioctoate, tin oxide and tin oxalate, and titanium compounds, such as titanium (IV)isopropoxide, can also be considered. Preferred are p-toluenesulphonic acid and titanium(IV)isopropoxide. [0024] To introduce the B blocks, cyclic esters or diesters can be used, for example, dilactide, diglycolide, p-dioxanone, .epsilon.-caprolactone, .omega.-pentadecalactone or their mixtures. Preferred for use are dilactide, L,L-dilactide or .omega.-pentadecalactone. Preferably, the reaction takes place in the mass, optionally with the addition of a catalyst, such as dibutyltin(IV)oxide, dibutyltin(IV)dilaurate, tin(II)dilaurate, tin(II)octanoate, titanium(IV)isopropoxide or lithium chloride. Preferred are dibutyltin(IV)oxide and tin(II)octanoate, particularly dibutyltin(IV)oxide. If a catalyst is used, then it can be in the amount of from 0.1 to 0.3 percent by mol. Because many of the possible catalysts, particularly the tin compounds, are toxic, if the triblock copolymers are used in materials for the cosmetic or medical areas, the catalyst residue that remains in the copolymer must be removed. The appropriate operational conditions are known to the expert and illustrated by the following examples. Continue reading about Cosmetic compositions comprising polyol/polyester block polymers... 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