Cosmetic composition with watertight fragrance   

Abstract: The present invention refers to a cosmetic composition which, in particular, enables the perfume component resist wash off by water and sweat and to remain fixed on the skin for a long time watertightly. The cosmetic composition comprises fragrance and a fragrance-fixing complex consisting of 0.01-10% by weight of a hydrophobic, alcohol-soluble, carboxylated acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer and 0.01-10% by weight of a hydrolyzed jojoba ester. Further the complex is able to significantly reduce the total amount of fragrances while giving the same scent feeling to the consumer.

This application claims the benefit of the filing date of U.S. Provisional Application Ser. No. 60/600,018 filed Aug. 9, 2004 which is incorporated by reference herein.

The present invention refers to a cosmetic composition which, in particular, enables the perfume component to resist wash off by water and sweat and to remain fixed on the skin for a long time (fragrance-watertight composition).

It is known to encapsulate perfume oils in liposomes or cyclodextrins to achieve a controlled release of these oils. Several systems have also been used to improve bonding to the skin or to extend the time the perfume lasts, e.g. chitin derivatives, quaternary chitosans, silicate materials and thermoplastic polyamides.

U.S. Pat. No. 6,143,353 A discloses the coating of pharmaceutically active ingredients as well as fragrant components with an aqueous dispersion of a plasticized, hydrophobic acrylic polymer, which acrylic polymer is an (alkyl)ester of acrylic/methacrylic acid.

U.S. Pat. No. 6,172,037 B1 discloses perfume-fixing substances comprising polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxy-propyl cellulose and a hydrophobic oil.

The object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition which is wash-off resistant by water and at the same time ensures that the perfume component remains fixed on the skin for a long time.

A further object of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition with reduced fragrance content and a feeling of the fragrance by the consumer without any difference.

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprising fragrances is further comprising a fragrance-fixing complex which comprises

0.01 to 10% by weight of a hydrophobic, alcohol-soluble, carboxylated acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer, 0.01 to 10% by weight of a hydrolyzed jojoba ester, and where all percents are related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The range of fragrances is between 0.01 and 35% by weight. A preferred range is 0.1-16%, more preferred 0.5-8% by weight, most preferred 1 to 5% by weight.

It is preferred that the copolymer be contained in an amount ranging between 0.1 and 5% by weight, more preferred 0.1-1.0% by weight. The carboxylated acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer can be replaced by the acrylic polymer Dermacryl® AQF (National Starch & Chemical Co., Bridgewater N.J., USA).

Further it is preferred that the jojoba ester is present in a range of 0.1 to 5%, more preferred 0.1-1% by weight.

In a special embodiment of the invention the jojoba ester and the copolymer constitute a separately prepared complex in the relation 1:1-4, preferably 1:1.2-2.8 of jojoba ester:polymer.

In a further embodiment of the invention the cosmetic composition comprises an alcohol or alcohol/water mixture.

The aforesaid fragrance-fixing complex can be used in cosmetic products such as emulsions, creams, lotions, sprays, shower gels, shower oils, bath products, foam baths, perfumes, aftershaves, shaving balms, face lotions, hair conditioners, skin gels, deodorants, detergents etc. At the same time, further cosmetic auxiliaries and carrier substances as they are commonly used in such preparations can be used, as well as further active agents. Auxiliaries include e.g. preservatives, colourants, polyols, esters, electrolytes, gel-forming agents, polar and non-polar oils, polymers, further copolymers, stabilizers, surface-active agents.

Cosmetic active agents include e.g. organic sunscreens, scavengers, moisturizing substances, vitamins, enzymes, plant-based active agents, polymers, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory natural active agents.

Preferred cosmetic fragrances are oil-soluble fragrances such as all fragrance oils which are known for the skilled in the art.

The hydrophobic, alcohol-soluble, carboxylated acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer used according to the invention is soluble in ethanol, isopropanol and fatty alcohols. It can be made water-soluble or dispersible in water by neutralizing the carboxy groups with water-soluble bases such as triethanolamine, sodium carbonate, aminomethylpropanol, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide. It can thus be easily washed off the skin with soap, if necessary. Due to the interaction of the copolymer with the hydrolyzed jojoba ester, which ester is soluble in the aqueous-alcoholic system and in glycol, and the solvent, fragrant molecules are integrated into a complex and remain bonded to the skin for a very long time. At the same time, the aforesaid complex has a strong water-repellent effect. Thus a very good endurance of the fragrant molecules on the skin is achieved during rain, sweat, swimming, etc.

A preferred copolymer is Acrylates Octylacrylamide Copolymer with an acidity of 2.4 meq/g. Such a product is available under DERMACRYL®AQF or DERMACRYL®79 by National Starch and Chem. Comp., NJ, USA.

A preferred hydrolyzed jojoba ester is one of plant origin (Simmondsia chinensis) having a saponification value according to AOCS Cd 3-25* of max. 1 mg KOH/g, a iodine value according to AOCS Cd 1d-92* of between 14 and 17 g/100 g and a trans isomer value according to AOCS Cd 14-95* of max. 0.1% by weight (* test procedure according to American Oil Chemists Society). Such a product (INCI: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water) is available under Floraesters® K-20W Jojoba by Int. Floratech Technol. Ltd., Hartsdale, N.Y., USA.

The following substances are particularly suitable for further processing the cosmetic complex.

Oils: Silicone oils, mineral oils, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisoprene, Squalane, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Trimethylpropane Triisostearate, Isodecyl Citrate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether as well as vegetable oils such as Calendula Oil, Jojoba Oil, Avocado Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Castor Oil, Cocoa Butter, Coconut Oil, Maize Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Kernel Oil, Rapeseed Oil, Safflower Oil, Sesame Seed Oil, Soybean Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Wheatgerm Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Kukui Nut Oil, Thistle Oil, and mixtures thereof. Synthetic squalane or squalane made from natural products is suitable too, as well as cosmetic esters or ethers which can be branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated. Scavengers: Antioxidants, vitamins such as Vitamin C and derivatives thereof, e.g. ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate; Vitamin A and derivatives thereof; folic acid and derivatives thereof; Vitamin E and derivatives thereof such as tocopheryl acetate; flavones and flavonoids; amino acids such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryptophan and derivatives thereof; carotenoids and carotenes such as α-carotene, β-carotene; uric acid and derivatives thereof; α-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid. Moisturizing substances: Glycerine, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, and mixtures thereof. Organic sunscreens: Derivatives of 4-aminobenzoic acid such as 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-(2-ethylhexyl)ester; esters of cinnamic acid such as 4-methoxy cinnamic acid(2-ethylhexyl)Ester; benzophenone derivatives such as 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone; derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as 3-Benzylidene Camphor. Other preferred oil-soluble UV filters are Benzophenone-3, Butyl Methoxybenzoylmethane, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Octyl Salicylate, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Homosalate, and Octyl Dimethyl PABA. Surface-active agents: Anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic or cationic surface-active agents, or mixtures thereof. Cationic polymers or a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surface-active agents are particularly preferred.

Non-limiting examples of anionic foaming surface-active agents include those selected from the group consisting of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphated monoglycerides, sulphonated olefins, alkyl aryl sulphonates, primary or secondary alkane sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, acyl taurates, acyl isothionates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulphonates, sulphonate methyl esters, sulphonated fatty acids, alkyl phosphates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, alkyl sulpho-acetates, acylated peptides, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl lactylates of anionic surface-active agents containing fluorine, and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of anionic surface-active agents can be effectively used in the present invention.

Examples of amphoteric surface-active agents which can be used in the present invention include at least those having an acid group. The aforesaid group can be a carboxyl group or a sulphonic acid group. Quaternary nitrogen and therefore quaternary amino acids are included. They should, in general, contain an alkyl group or alkenyl group having 7 to 18 carbon atoms. Suitable amphoteric detergents include simple betaines and amidobetaines which are a mixture of C12- and C14-alkyl groups derived from the coconut so that at least half, preferably three quarters, of the R1-hydrocarbon chain has 10 to 14 carbon atoms. It is preferred that the other two R2- and R3-hydrocarbon chains be methyl. Further, the amphoteric detergent can be a sulphobetaine. Amphoacetates and diamphoacetates can also occur as possible zwitterionic and/or amphoteric compounds, which can be used. An amphoteric surface-active agent should, in general, be contained in an amount ranging approximately between 0.1 and 20%, preferably 5 and 18% by weight, relative to the composition.

Suitable non-ionic surface-active agents include, but are not limited to, Coconut Acyl Mono-ethanolamide or Coconut Acyl Diethanolamide, Alkyl Polysaccharide, Lactobionamide, Ethylene Glycol Ester, Glycerine Monoether, Polyhydroxyamide (Glucamide), primary and secondary alcohol ethoxylates, particularly C8-20 aliphatic alcohols ethoxylated with an average of 1 to 20 moles ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol. Mixtures of the aforesaid surface-active agents can also be used.

Pigments, pigment mixtures or powders with a pigment-like effect, also including those with a pearl-gloss effect may be added to the composition of the invention. The may include, for example, iron oxides, aluminum silicates such as ochre, titanium (di)oxide, mica, kaolin, manganese containing clays such as umber and red bole, calcium carbonate, French chalk, mica-titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide-iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride, nylon beads, ceramic beads, expanded and non-expanded synthetic polymer powders, powdery natural organic compounds such as milled solid algae, milled plant parts, encapsulated and non-encapsulated cereal starches and mica-titanium oxide-organic dye.

Also included in the composition of the invention are antiperspirants and deodorants, such as Triclosan, Trimethyl Citrate, Farnesol, Aluminum Chlorhydrate, Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorhydex GLY etc.

In comparative tests, it has been found that the addition of the complex according to the invention brings about a significant increase in waterproofness during a period of 4-6 hours, both in a sensory test with test persons and in an analytical test by means of gas chromatography/mass spectroscopy. The waterproofness of an aftershave in a test lasting 8 hours was also considerably higher than that of the untreated original product.

It has further been found that the addition of the complex in the range of 0.5-8% by weight, preferably 1-3% by weight, related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, e.g. a perfume, to the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition, can reduce the amount of the fragrance usually added to the composition without loss of fragrance intensity. This means that in consumer studies carried out to determine whether there was a difference in fragrance character between a standard product and a product with 20% less fragrance and added 1-2% of the complex of the invention, no significant difference has been stated.

The preferred method for manufacturing the waterproof cosmetic composition consists in that a hydrolyzed jojoba ester is mixed with some alcohol or alcohol/water mixture, and at a temperature ranging between 18-40° C. an acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer in powder form is sprayed into the mixture during the mixing process. The received complex can dried before use in the cosmetic formulation or can directly added to the other ingredients of the composition. Mixing of some alcohol, the ester, the copolymer and optionally a 10% Na2CO3 solution in that order is also possible.

The use of the fragrance-fixing complex of the invention is preferred in the following groups of products perfumes hair care and body care products e.g. hair washes, body washes, shower gels, shampoos, conditioners, etc. sun care products e.g. sun creams, sun lotions, after-sun products, body bronzers, sun sprays, sun milks etc. antiperspirants and deodorants products of color cosmetic e.g. mascaras, foundations, make-up, lipsticks, lip balms etc.

The invention will hereinafter be explained in more detail by means of examples. The figures show

FIG. 1: Sensory analysis of aftershave of example 1

FIG. 2: Analytical results of aftershave of example 1

FIG. 3: Sensory analysis of EDT of example 11

FIG. 4: SPME results for fragrance C (ex. 16) skintight headspace

All quantities in the examples are given in percent by weight unless indicated otherwise.

Phase A Ethanol q.s. ad 100 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 0.2 Benzophenone-3 0.1 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.5 L-Menthol 0.15 Phase B Fragrance 7.0 Ethanol 15.0 Phase C Water 12 Allantoin 0.1 Phase D Ethanol 6.0 Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters & Water 0.5 Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer 1.0 Phase E Colourants 0.015

The ingredients of Phase A were mixed with one another, incorporating PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil at approx. 60° C. Separately, Phases B and C were prepared in the same manner. Phase D was prepared by mixing the jojoba ester with ethanol at approx. 25° C. while spraying in the copolymer in powder form during the mixing process. The mixture was then stirred until a clear, homogeneous solution was obtained. First, Phase D was mixed with Phase B. Subsequently, Phases A and C were mixed with one another and the mixture was filtered using a filter cushion (60S). The mixture of Phases D and B was then added into the mixture of Phases A and C while stirring and finally Phase E was added and the overall mixture was stirred at a constant speed.

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