Cosmetic composition for making-up and/or caring for keratin materials and make-up method   

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended for horny tissues, especially the skin, lips, hair and nails. The invention relates in particular to makeup compositions for the said horny tissues, comprising at least one siloxane resin and at least one non-volatile oil.

One of the objectives of the application is to provide makeup compositions intended for horny tissues (skin, mucous membranes, fiber, eyelashes and integument) permitting deposition of a totally non-transfer film, whose gloss may be controlled, and exhibiting good comfort.

In the field of lipsticks, good staying power is also a demand of the consumers; today it is achieved by using what are referred to as film-forming polymers in the compositions, so as to limit the transfer of color. The formation of polymer films on the lips may be a source of discomfort, particularly because of the tensions that the film-forming substance exerts on the mucous membranes of the lips.

Furthermore, in particular in the field of makeup compositions for lips, it is generally endeavored to obtain compositions whose deposit on the lips is glossy. However, the achievement of this property often goes hand in hand with a tacky sensation on the lips. This tacky character causes these formulas to leave traces on substrates such as glasses, coffee cups.

The formulator is therefore on the lookout for raw materials and/or systems that make it possible to obtain compositions whose deposit is characterized by comfort, gloss and a non-transfer effect, without developing tack.

Another objective of the Application, achieved by certain embodiments, is to obtain makeup compositions, especially for the lips, that exhibit a good level of gloss.

In fact, in the field of lipsticks, the formulator is on the lookout for compositions that exhibit good properties of comfort (suppleness) and gloss. This gloss, which makes it possible to enhance the lips, is generally achieved by formulating glossy oils and/or reflective particles. When formulation is carried out with glossy oils, the makeup formulas then exhibit the characteristic of being tacky. This tacky character causes these formulas to leave traces on substrates such as glasses, coffee cups.

The comfort characteristic is aimed in particular at ensuring that the deposit of this composition, for example on the lips, does not wrinkle.

The formulator is therefore on the lookout for raw materials and/or systems that make it possible to obtain compositions whose deposit is characterized by comfort, gloss and a non-tacky effect. This objective is achieved by virtue of the compositions according to the invention.

The object of the present invention is effectively a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a siloxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of the units: (i) (R′3SiO1,2)a (hereinafter “M” units) and (ii) (SiO4,2)b (hereinafter “Q” units) wherein R′ independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the proviso that at least 95 mol % of the R′ groups are alkyl groups, a and b have values strictly greater than 0; and the a/b ratio ranges between 0.5 and 1.5, and b) a propyl silsesquioxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of (R″SiO3/2) units (hereinafter “T” units), in which R″ independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the proviso that at least 80 mol % of the R″ groups are propyl groups, the weight ratio between resins a) and b) being between 1/99 and 99/1, particularly between 85/15 and 15/85, resins a) and b) not being bonded to one another by covalent bonds, and the number of M units of the final mixture being strictly smaller than the number of (T+Q) units, and c) at least one non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon oil, and preferably chosen from among the group comprising paraffin oil (or vaseline), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink, turtle, soy oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grapeseed, sesame, corn, arara, colza, sunflower seed, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; the fatty esters, especially with C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine or diglycerine triisostearate; behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; the higher fatty alcohols, especially with C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise an additional ingredient, preferably chosen from among pasty compounds of non-animal origin, fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agents, waxes, hydrophilic gelling agents, fillers, film-forming polymers, ionic surfactants, fibers and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one additional ingredient, preferably chosen from among pasty compounds of non-animal origin, fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agents with the exception of dimethicone cross-polymers, waxes with the exception of candelilla wax, of ozokerite and of the silicone waxes, hydrophilic gelling agents, fillers, film-forming polymers, ionic surfactants with the exception of lauryl ether sulfate, fibers and mixtures thereof.

In particular, according to one embodiment, the waxes are chosen from among beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, ouricurry wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty, linear or branched C8-C32 chains, fluoro waxes, wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and tacky waxes. Preferably, the ionic surfactants are chosen from among cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, carboxylates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, alkylsulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglycoside, amine-derived salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, phosphoric acids and their salts, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfates, isethionates and N-acylisethionates, acylglutamates, soy derivatives, citrates, proline derivatives, lactylates, sarcosinates, sulfonates and glycinates.

Preferably, the fatty-phase thickening or gelling rheological agents are chosen from among crystalline polymers, mineral lipophilic structuring agents, lipophilic polyamides, lipophilic polyureas and polyurethanes, silicone polymers comprising, as the case may be, at least one hydrocarbon moiety composed of two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from among ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino groups and combinations thereof, organo gelling agents, block polymers, cholesteric liquid crystal agents, dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymers and vinyldimethicone/alkyl dimethicone copolymers, such as vinyldimethicone/lauryl dimethicone copolymers.

Another object of the present invention is a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a siloxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of the units: (i) (R′3SiO1/2)a (hereinafter “M” units) and (ii) (SiO4/2)b (hereinafter “Q” units) wherein R′ independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the proviso that at least 95 mol % of the R′ groups are alkyl groups, a and b have values strictly greater than 0; and the a/b ratio ranges between 0.5 and 1.5, and b) a film-forming propyl silsesquioxane resin comprising at least 80 mol % of (R″SiO3/2) units (hereinafter “T” units), in which R″ independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the proviso that at least 40 mol % of the R″ groups are propyl groups, the weight ratio between resins a) and b) being between 1/99 and 99/1, particularly between 85/15 and 15/85, resins a) and b) not being bonded to one another by covalent bonds, and the number of M units of the final mixture being strictly smaller than the number of (T+Q) units, and c) at least one non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon oil, and preferably chosen from among the group comprising paraffin oil (or vaseline), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink, turtle, soy oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grapeseed, sesame, corn, arara, colza, sunflower seed, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; the fatty esters, especially with C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine or diglycerine triisostearate; behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; the higher fatty alcohols, especially with C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.

Siloxane resin a), referred to as “MQ resin” hereinafter, preferably comprises residual silanol groups (—SiOH). In this case, the quantity of —OH groups preferably ranges between 2 and 10% by weight of the MQ resin, preferably between 2 and 5% by weight of the MQ resin.

Preferably, the R′ groups of the MQ resin are methyl groups.

Resin b), referred to as “propyl T resin” hereinafter, preferably comprises residual silanol groups (—SiOH) and/or alkoxy groups. In this case, the quantity of —OH groups preferably ranges between 2 and 20% by weight of the propyl T resin, and/or the quantity of alkoxy groups is smaller than or equal to 20% by weight of the propyl T resin. Preferably, the quantity of —OH groups ranges between 6 and 8% by weight of the propyl T resin, and/or the quantity of alkoxy groups is smaller than or equal to 10% by weight of the propyl T resin.

The propyl T resin according to the invention is such that at least 40 mol % of the R″ groups are propyl groups; preferably at least 50 mol %, and more preferentially at least 90 mol %.

By covalent bond there is understood a chemical bond between at least 2 atoms (carbon, silicon, oxygen, etc.) in which each of the bonded atoms commonly contributes an electron of one of its outer layers in order to form an electron pair bonding the two atoms.

The MQ resin according to the invention comprises at least 80 mol % of the units: (i) (R3SIO1/2)a (hereinafter “M” units) and (ii) (SiO4/2)b (hereinafter “Q” units) wherein R′ independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the proviso that at least 95 mol % of the R′ groups are alkyl groups, a and b have values strictly greater than 0; and the a/b ratio ranges between 0.5 and 1.5.

The R′ radical of the MQ resin independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group.

The alkyl groups may be chosen in particular from among the methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl and octyl groups. Preferably the alkyl group is a methyl group.

The aryl groups may be chosen from among the phenyl, naphthyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl, xenyl, methylphenyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenyl-2-methylethyl, chlorophenyl, bromophenyl and fluorophenyl groups, the aryl group preferentially being a phenyl group.

In the present invention, “carbinol group” is understood as any group containing at least one hydroxyl radical bonded to a carbon (COH). The carbinol groups may therefore contain more than one COH radical, such as, for example

If the carbinol group is free of aryl groups, it contains at least 3 carbon atoms. If the carbinol group comprises at least one aryl group, it contains at least 6 carbon atoms.

As examples of carbinol groups free of aryl groups and containing at least 3 carbon atoms there can be cited the groups of formula R1OH, in which R1 represents a bivalent hydrocarbon radical containing at least 3 carbon atoms or a bivalent hydrocarbonoxy radical containing at least 3 carbon atoms. As examples of the R1 group there can be cited alkylene radicals such as —(CH2)x—, the value of x ranging between 3 and 10, —CH2CH(CH3)—, —CH2CH(CH3)CH2—, —CH2CH2CH(CH2CH3)CH2CH2CH2— and —OCH(CH3)(CH2)x—, the value of x ranging between 1 and 10.

As examples of carbinol groups containing aryl groups having at least 6 carbon atoms there can be cited the groups of formula R2OH, in which R2 represents an arylene radical such as —(CH2)xC6H4—, x having a value between 0 and 10, —CH2CH(CH3)(CH2)xC6H4—, x having a value between 0 and 10, —(CH2)xC6H4(CH2)x—, x having a value between 1 and 10. The carbinol groups containing aryl groups generally contain 6 to 14 atoms.

By amino group according to the invention, there is understood in particular groups of formula —R3NH2 or —R3NHR4NH2, R3 representing a bivalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 2 carbon atoms and R4 representing a bivalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 2 carbon atoms. The R3 group generally represents an alkylene radical having 2 to 20 carbon atoms. As examples of R3 groups there can be cited the ethylene, propylene, —CH2CHCH3—, butylene, —CH2CH(CH3)CH2—, pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethylhexamethylene, octamethylene and decamethylene groups. The R4 group generally represents an alkylene radical having 2 to 20 carbon atoms. As examples of R4 groups there can be cited the ethylene, propylene, —CH2CHCH3—, butylene, —CH2CH(CH3)CH2—, pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethylhexamethylene, octamethylene and decamethylene groups.

The amino groups are generally —CH2CH2CH2NH2 and —CH2(CH3)CHCH2(H)NCH)3, —CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2, —CH2CH2NH2, —CH2CH2NHCH3, —CH2CH2CH2CH2NH2, —(CH2CH2NH)3H and —CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NHC4H9.

MQ resins suitable for use as component a), as well as their manufacturing methods, are known in the prior art. U.S. Pat. No. 2,814,601 of Currie et al., dated 26 Nov. 1957, incorporated into the present document by reference, describes a method for manufacturing MQ resins by transformation of a water-soluble silicate into a silicic acid monomer or a silicic acid oligomer by using an acid. Once adequate polymerization has been achieved, trimethylchlorosilane terminal groups are introduced to obtain the MQ resin. Another method for preparation of MQ resins is described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,857,356 of Goodwin, dated 21 Oct. 1958, incorporated into the present document by reference. Goodwin describes a method for manufacturing an MQ resin by cohydrolysis of a mixture of an alkyl silicate and of an organopolysiloxane trialkylsilane capable of being hydrolyzed by water.

The MQ resins suitable as component a) in the present invention may contain D and T units, with the proviso that at least 80 mol %, even 90 mol % of the total siloxane units are M and Q units. The MQ resins may also contain residual hydroxy groups as mentioned hereinabove. The MQ resins may also contain additional terminal groups, in which case the residual hydroxy groups are made to react with appropriate M groups.

Propyl T resin b) according to the invention comprises at least 80 mol % of (R″SiO3/2) units, in which R″ independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, with the proviso that at least 40 mol % of the R″ groups are propyl groups.

Preferably, the propyl T resin according to the invention is such that at least 50 mol % of the R″ groups are propyl groups, preferably at least 90 mol %.

Preferably, propyl T resin b) is film-forming. By “film-forming resin” there is understood a resin capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary filmifying agent, a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to horny tissues, and preferably a cohesive film, and even better a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that the said film may be isolated and manipulated in isolation, for example when the said film is formed by casting on a non-sticking surface, such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

The definition of the R″ radical is the same as that of the R′ radical. The aforementioned definitions applicable to R′ are therefore applicable to R″.

Propyl T resin b) according to the invention is a silsesquioxane resin. Silsesquioxane resins are well known in the prior art and are generally obtained by hydrolysis of an organosilane containing three hydrolyzable groups, such as halogen or alkoxy groups, present in the molecule. Propyl T resin b) may therefore be obtained by hydrolysis of propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, propyltripropoxysilane, or by cohydrolysis of the aforementioned propylalkoxysilanes with diverse alkoxysilanes. As examples of these alkoxysilanes there can be cited methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriisopropoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane and phenyltrimethoxysilane. Propyltrichlorosilane may also be hydrolyzed alone or in the presence of alcohol. In this case, the cohydrolysis may be achieved by adding methyltrichlorosilane, dimethyldichlorosilane, phenyltrichlorosilane or similar chlorosilanes and methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriisopropoxysilane or similar methylalkoxysilanes. As alcohols suitable for this purpose there may be cited methanol, ethanol, n-propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, methoxyethanol, ethoxyethanol or similar alcohols. As examples of solvents of hydrocarbon type that may be used simultaneously there may be cited toluene, xylene or similar aromatic hydrocarbons, hexane, heptane, isooctane or similar linear or partly branched saturated hydrocarbons; as well as cyclohexane or similar aliphatic hydrocarbons.

Propyl T resins b) according to the invention may contain M, D and Q units, with the proviso that at least 80 mol %, even 90 mol % of the total siloxane units are T units. The propyl T resins may also contain residual hydroxy and/or alkoxy groups, as mentioned in the foregoing.

The composition according to the invention also comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By physiologically acceptable medium there is understood a medium compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and the integument.

This medium may comprise at least one volatile silicone or organic solvent, this solvent preferably being compatible with resins a/ and b/ and compatible with a cosmetic use.

As volatile silicone solvent there may be cited the cyclic polysiloxanes, the linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.

As volatile linear polysiloxanes there may be cited hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.

As volatile cyclic polysiloxanes there may be cited hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

The organic solvent may also be an alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, n-propanol; a ketone such as acetone, methyl ethyl ketone or methyl isobutyl ketone; an aliphatic hydrocarbon such as heptane, hexane, octane or isododecane; a glycol ether such as propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol n-butyl ether.

The mixture of resins at and b/ may be obtained from each of the resins in solution in a solvent. In general, at the end of synthesis of the MQ resin according to the invention, this resin is obtained directly in solution in xylene.

Similarly, at the end of synthesis of propyl T resin b) according to the invention, this resin is obtained directly in solution in toluene.

Each of these resins in solution is mixed with the other according to the following protocol: 1) Mixing the two resin solutions under agitation, then heating, especially in a reactor or in an autoclave (in order to be able to operate under pressure if necessary, or on the other hand by establishing a partial vacuum), even in an extruder, which may or may not be equipped with a solvent “devolatilization” system, under the following specific conditions: heating is carried out homogeneously: the heating temperature must be higher than 90° C. and lower than or equal to 250° C., and preferably between 90° C. and 190° C. Either heating is carried out at a single temperature, between 90° C. and 250° C., Or heating may be carried out at successive temperature levels: first between 90° C. and T1° C., T1° C. being a temperature value intermediate between 90° C. and T2° C., which is the final temperature, for a duration between 10 minutes and 2 hours, then between T1° C. and T2° C., for a duration between 10 minutes and 4 hours, the temperature T2° C. corresponding to the maximum temperature chosen for the reaction. This value of T2° C. is variable depending on the chosen mode of operation and on the chosen reactor type: traditional reactor or autoclave or extruder, but T2° C. remains lower than or equal to 250° C. It is also possible to interpose intermediate temperature levels between T1° C. and T2° C.; the duration of heating is at least one hour in the reactor or in the autoclave and at least 10 minutes in the extruder, preferably between 1 h and 5 h in the reactor or in the autoclave, and preferably between 10 minutes and 2 hours in the extruder; with the proviso that these heat treatments are carried out without the presence of a catalyst for chemical condensation between the two MQ and propyl T resins. Such a catalyst is in particular a mineral base, especially NaOH, KOH or ammonia. 2) Optionally, partial or complete distillation of the aromatic solvents is carried out after or even during step 1) of the heat treatment of the two resins at the indicated temperature level, while replacing them by a cosmetically acceptable volatile solvent. Such a volatile solvent may be in particular a volatile or non-volatile silicone, preferably decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or a volatile or non-volatile organic solvent, preferably isododecane. 3) Also optionally, after mixing of the two initial solutions of each resin in a volatile solvent, the mixture of the solutions is processed in a single-screw or twin-screw kneader of the “devolatilization” extruder type, in a temperature interval between 90° and 250° C., making it possible to volatilize the volatile solvents by establishing a partial vacuum, while operating continuously, and then to pass the molten, solvent-free mixture into a die. The molten mixture is then cooled at the outlet of the die and chopped into solid granules or into powder form. In this case the mixture is directly in solid form and will be redissolved in the chosen solvents when it is time for formulation.

Furthermore, another object of the present invention is a composition such as described hereinabove comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

1) the mixture between a siloxane resin a) and a propyl silsesquioxane resin b), the mixture being such as described hereinabove, and c) at least one non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon oil, and preferably chosen from among the group comprising paraffin oil (or vaseline), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink, turtle, soy oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grapeseed, sesame, corn, arara, colza, sunflower seed, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; the fatty esters, especially with C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine or diglycerine triisostearate; behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; the higher fatty alcohols, especially with C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof. the siloxane resin a) and the propyl silsesquioxane resin b) being formulated in the composition via a mixture capable of being obtained according to the following method: Mixing, preferably under agitation, of a solution of siloxane resin with a solution of propyl silsesquioxane resin, the solvent present in each of the solutions preferably being volatile, then Heating, especially in a reactor or in an autoclave or in an extruder, under the following specific conditions: heating is carried out homogeneously at a temperature higher than 90° C. and lower than or equal to 250° C., and preferably between 90° C. and 190° C.; heating may be carried out at a single temperature, or in temperature levels, as indicated hereinabove; the duration of heating is at least one hour in the reactor or in the autoclave and at least 10 minutes in the extruder, preferably between 1 h and 5 h in the reactor or in the autoclave, and preferably between 10 minutes and 2 hours in the extruder; with the proviso that these heat treatments are carried out without the presence of a catalyst for chemical condensation between the two MQ and propyl T resins. Such a catalyst is in particular a mineral base, especially NaOH, KOH or ammonia.

This method may comprise, after or even during the mixing step, an additional step of partial or complete distillation of the aromatic solvents, while replacing them with a cosmetically acceptable solvent.

In the case that an extruder is used, this method may comprise, after or even during the mixing step, an additional step of partial or complete distillation of the aromatic solvents, while discharging the mixture directly in the solid state.

The final heat-treatment step, or even the heat treatment itself may be achieved in a kneader provided for agitation of very viscous media such as: a kneader of “Z-arm” type (“Zigma blender”), especially a Brabender kneader, a screw kneader of extruder type, particularly a single-screw or a twin-screw extruder (with or without a stage for “devolatilization” of starting volatile solvents) or in a kneader that permits devolatilization by establishing a thin film on the walls.

Resin mixtures 1) suitable for use according to the invention are especially those described in Application WO 2005/075567, the contents of which are incorporated here by reference, particularly those described in Tables 1 and 3 of the said Application. It is also possible to use resin mixtures 1) described in Application WO2007/145765, particularly those described in Examples 12 to 14 of that Application, wherein the weight ratios between resins a) and b) are respectively 50/50, 60/40 and 71/29 (70/30).

According to a particular mode, there is used resin mixture 1) described in Example 22 of the said Application WO2005/075567, wherein the weight ratio between resin a) and b) is 85/15.

According to a particular mode, there is used resin mixture 1) described in Example 13 of the said Application WO2007/145765, wherein the weight ratio between resin a) and b) is 60/40.

Preferably, the siloxane resin is present in the composition in a total content of dry resin material ranging from 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight, and better ranging from 6% to 60% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention may assume diverse forms, especially the form of powder, anhydrous dispersion, water-in-oil or water-in wax emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion, multiple emulsions or wax-in-water emulsion, or gel.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 3%, or better less than 1% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the composition is completely anhydrous. By anhydrous there is understood in particular that preferably water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in the trace state in the different compounds used in the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

The non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the non-volatile liquid fatty phase of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 50% by weight.

The non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils.

By “oil” there is understood a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By “non-volatile oil” there is understood an oil that remains on the horny tissues at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and having in particular a vapor pressure lower than 10 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined in the foregoing, the quantity evaporated at the end of 30 minutes is smaller than 0.07 mg/cm2.

By “hydrocarbon oil” there is understood an oil formed substantially, even constituted of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

By “silicone oil” there is understood an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially comprising Si—O groups.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil there may be used paraffin oil (or vaseline), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink, turtle, soy oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grapeseed, sesame, corn, arara, colza, sunflower seed, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; the fatty esters, especially with C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine or diglycerine triisostearate; behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; the higher fatty alcohols, especially with C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.

As non-volatile oil that can be used there may also be cited the non-volatile C6-C22 hydrocarbon oils that can be chosen from among: the carbonates of the following formula (I): R1-O—C(═O)—O—R′1, where R1 and R′1, identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched, C4 to C12, and preferentially C5 to C10 alkyl chain, possibly having at least one saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated) ring; which oils of formula (I) may be dicaprylyl carbonate, sold under the trade name Cetiol CC® by the COGNIS Company, di(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, sold under the trade name TEGOSOFT DEC® by the Goldschmidt Company, di-isobutyryl carbonate; di-neopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate, di-neoheptyl carbonate; di-heptyl carbonate; di-isononyl carbonate; or di-nonyl carbonate; the monoesters of formula (II): R2-O—C(═O)—R′2, where R2 and R′2, identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched, C4 to C12, and preferentially C5 to C10 alkyl chain, possibly having at least one saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated ring; which oils of formula (II) may be 2-ethylhexyl isobutyrate, 2-ethylhexyl butyrate, caprylyl butyrate, isononyl isobutyrate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, isononyl hexanoate, neopentyl hexanoate, caprylyl heptanoate, octyl octanoate, sold under the trade name DRAGOXAT EH® by the SYMRISE Company, isononyl isononanoate, the di-esters of the following formula (III): R3-O—C(═O)—R′3-C(═O)—O—R″3, where R3 and R″3, identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially C5 to C10 alkyl chain, possibly having at least one saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated ring, and R′3 represents a saturated or unsaturated C1 to C4, preferably C2 to C4 alkylene chain, such as, for example, an alkylene chain derived from succinate (in this case R′3 is a saturated C2 alkylene chain), maleate (in this case R′3 is an unsaturated C2 alkylene chain), glutarate (in this case R′3 is a saturated C3 alkylene chain), or adipate (in this case R′3 is a saturated C4 alkylene chain); in particular, R3 and R″3 are chosen from among isobutyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, heptyl, neoheptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, nonyl, isononyl; there may be cited preferentially dicaprylyl maleate, especially sold by the ALZO Company; di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate; the ethers of the following formula (IV): R4-O—R4′, where R4 and R′4, identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially C5 to C10 alkyl chain, possibly having at least one saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated ring; in particular, R4 and R′4 are chosen from among isobutyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, heptyl, neoheptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, nonyl, isononyl; among the compounds of formula (IV) there may be cited preferentially dicaprylyl ether, sold under the name of Cetiol OE® by the COGNIS Company; the alkyl tri-esters of formula (V): R5-O—C(O)—CH2-CH[—O—C(O)—R′5]-CH2-O—C(O)—R″5, where R5, R′5 and R″5, identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched C4-C10, preferably C5-C8 alkyl chain, in particular, R5, R′5 and R″5 are identical; preferably, R5, R′5 and R″5 (in particular identical) are alkyl radicals of the following fatty acids: caprylic, 2-ethylhexylic, neopentanoic, or neoheptanoic acid; as compound of formula (V) there may be cited preferentially caprylic capric triglyceride, sold in particular under the name MYRITOL 318® by the COGNIS Company; and mixtures thereof.

The C6-C22 non-volatile hydrocarbon oil advantageously used in the scope of compositions intended in particular to be applied on the skin or on the lips is caprylic capric triglyceride, in particular sold under the name of MYRITOL 318® by the COGNIS Company.

For makeup products for the skin or lips, especially foundations and lipsticks, there will be advantageously used non-volatile linear silicone oils. The association of resins according to the invention and of a linear silicone oil may make it possible in particular to improve the non-transfer property.

According to another embodiment, the non-volatile oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, especially in the case of compositions intended to be applied on the lips, preferably chosen from among the group comprising: the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as the triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, wherein the fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, which chains may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic, octanoic acids; these oils are in particular, wheat germ, sunflower seed, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, colza, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, lucerne, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, gourd, colza, blackcurrent, primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passion flower, muscat rose oils; or else the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid such as those sold by the Stearineries Dubois Company or those sold under the trade names “Miglyol 810®”, “812®” and “818®” by the Dynamit Nobel Company, the synthetic ethers; the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, vaseline, the polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® or parleam V® sold by the NIPPON OIL FATS Company, squalane, and mixtures thereof; the esters of fatty acid, in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl 2-diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, the synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2≧11, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate; the hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glycerine or diglycerine triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and the esters of pentaerythritol; the esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate, the polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and diol such as those described in French Patent Application 0853634, such as, in particular, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this category there may be cited in particular the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the trade name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), the fatty acids that are liquid at room temperature with branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyldodecanol; the C8-C26 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid; and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile oil may also be a silicone oil, preferably chosen from among the non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups pendant from and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms each, such as the PDMS DC 200 Fluid 5 cST and 350 cST sold by Dow Corning.

Preferably, the non-volatile oil has a viscosity lower than or equal to 30,000 cPs at 25° C.

The viscosity is measured at 25° C.±0.5° C. by means of a Haake RS75 imposed-stress rheometer of the Thermo Rheo Company equipped with a traveler of conical/flat geometry with a diameter between 2 cm and 6 cm and an angle between 1° and 2°, the choice of the traveler being a function of the viscosity to be measured (the more fluid the oil, the greater the diameter of the chosen cone and the smaller the angle). The measurement is performed by applying on the oil specimen a logarithmic shear stress gradient ranging from 0.2 Pa to 1,000 Pa for a duration of 20 minutes. The rheogram representing the evolution of the viscosity as a function of the shear rate ε′ is then plotted. The rheogram exhibits a plateau at low shear rate values (referred to as Newtonian plateau); this plateau corresponds to a stable viscosity value, which is the viscosity determined in this way for the oil.

Preferably, when the non-volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil, it has a viscosity at 25° C. lower than or equal to 30,000 cPs, preferably between 5 and 30,000 cPs.

Remark: in general, the expression “between” includes the boundary values of the interval.

According to a first advantageous embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil preferably has a viscosity at 25° C. between 20 and 30,000 cPs.